Mountain Tales

March 30th - riding day 1

We took a while to get packed up today so didn't leave till 11. We found a right turn after the river crossing which took us up towards the bush and stayed on that for a while until we saw a likely spot to cross Swamp Creek. Took us forever to cross it - we had to get off to leap over a tributary that looked boggy, then spent a very long time crossing the creek itself, having to lead the horses over with the other person encouraging them on from behind as they were wary of the steep bank on the way in.

Once we crossed the creek and got to the tree line we searched in both directions for a path up the hill but didn't find one.

At 1.30 we stopped for lunch and cross checked the map with the GPS to find out how far off we were. It seemed we had crossed Swamp Creek too early and had ended up in the wrong side of a quite large tributary. We needed to be further up Swamp Creek. After lunch we tried getting up across the tributary but just ended up stuck in trees and up a steep ridge, so decided to come back. The horses did some excellent downhill work at this point, sliding and dancing in Man from Snowy River fashion (though much slower).

We found a different place to cross back over Swamp Creek (there was a snake near the bank who scared us but then he left as we were stomping about so much trying to cross the creek) and continued following the track we had left to do our initial crossing. We found what we think is the right crossing-place further up, but the track crossing is a couple of pieces of corrugated iron over a steel frame for cars and was not suitable for horses. We rode up the creek a bit looking for a good crossing but found none and decided that people must normally cross beside the bridge, although the banks were very steep. We didn't want to go through another wet-foot crossing so we decided to come back to camp tonight and perhaps try Tolbar Road with boots tomorrow so we can finally see Happy's Hut!

When we got back to the float we were very glad to be able to put on dry socks and dry out our things by the heater.

March 31st - riding day 2

The Third Assault on Happy's Hut

We left about 10.30, crossed the river and headed up Tolbar Road. Put the boots on the horses about 7kms in where the road got very rocky. The horses coped well with the climb, though it was slow going over the rocks.

As we got higher the air got amazingly fresh and also quite cold. We stopped for lunch at 2, letting the horses pick at the grass under the power lines beside Tolbar Road while we had our nibbles. When we got going again we had only 5kms left to the Hut. We felt we were pretty sure to make it!

We turned off Tolbar Road into Tabletop Trail, much grassier and really good going, and the sign said 3kms to Happy's Hut! We took their boots off as the ground was so nice, and the road climbed steadily to the turnoff to Happy's Hut, which was 1590m. Happy's Hut trail dropped down into the valley very quickly and before we had even left the trees we had spotted Happy's Hut straight across the plain, and another Hut off to the left (Brooke's?).

As we left the trees we saw moving shapes ahead and closer inspection revealed a herd of wild pigs - several adults and a number of piglets as well. We stopped and stared at them for a while, not knowing if they would leave as we approached (they were on the trail) or if the horses would be freaked out by them. Would we be prevented from making it to Happy's Hut by pigs on the road?

After a little while we decided to approach making a lot of noise, so Dad yelled and I did my singing warmup. The pigs ran off into the scrub. We rode the rest of the way to the hut. I'm writing this by the fire as the sky turns all sorts of gorgeous colours in the sunset. Time to go put my thermals on I think!

April 1st - riding day 3

We awoke to a frosty morning, including frost on the ends of our sleeping bags (explains why our feet were so cold) and on a bit of the edges too. Heavy frost on the grass and hut. We were glad we had slept on the verandah rather than by the fire. The billy which had been sitting by the fire with some water in it was frosted over and had shards of ice in it.

No horse dramas during the night but this morning Heidi had her rope between her front legs and Sam's was twisted around the tie line so they must have been quietly tangling themselves in the night. We think they probably lay down to keep warm (and fair enough too).

Once the sun came up everything (including us) started thawing out and all our frosted kit dried out (mostly) and we packed up. After I had strapped everything onto Sam I tied him to a tree to have a last pee before we left. While I was gone one of the straps which tied the orange bag with my sleeping roll in it onto the saddle broke with a loud snap and rebounded onto Sam's bum. He panicked, pulled back from the tree he was tied to, broke free and went pig-rooting across the front of the hut. Fortunately he stopped and once I had got my pants back up I caught him easily. He had broken the metal rope clip when he pulled back. Glad the strap didn't break while I was riding! Replaced it with string for the moment. I was impressed that everything stayed on as Sam cavorted on the lawn, including my drizabone, the GPS and Sam's boots.

We started the day by following the edge of the plain down a km or two to try to find Brooke's Hut (or the place it used to be). Saw some lovely views and a couple of old fence lines but didn't find the site. I had seen a structure of some sort in that direction on the descent into the valley yesterday. That one will have to be a mystery for another trip.

As we rode down Tolbar Road on the way home we decided we needed to write a list of all the mysteries still to solve - the paths and huts we'd like to see. Starting with Brooks Hut, the way up to Happy's via Swamp Creek and Gavel's Hut (for me - Dad visited on his early March trip).

Dec 27th 2016

Evening ride - we swapped horses and did some jumping.

Dec 28th 2016

Played about on the arena again today.

Dec 29th 2016

9km fully laden training ride in the morning:

• Neither seemed to notice the weight
• Sam still managed to shy at things
• Heidi still managed to jig-jog.

Jan 2nd - drive to Wares Yards

M and D left early with the van. I pottered about doing getting-ready jobs and bought some maps of Victoria from Paddy Palin.

Dad got back about 3.45 and we cross checked lists, loaded up and were out the gate by 5. Got to the mountains in time to feed the horses and set up the tent in the gathering dusk. Late dinner. Tired and happy to late bed.

Jan 3rd

Got to watch some kangaroos boxing as I held the horses for their morning grass pick today.

Took it easy getting ready then went for a ride to Gavels Hut at about 11. The horses were keen to be out and went up the hill pretty quickly. Dropped my rope somewhere in the first 3kms. Views from the top of the ridge were amazing.

Saw a beautiful very dark grey bird with a red crest that we want to look up when we are home. Got to Gavels Hut about 12.30. Ate our lunch here and found that the Hut has good water. Also has a fantastic gnarly tree.

Saw some brumbies on the plain past Gavels Hut. Horses were still pretty fresh coming home - also pretty annoyed by the horse flies so we will put lots of fly spray on them tomorrow. Rode approximately 14 km all up.

In the afternoon we put the horses on the line for an hour (they were very happy there) and worked out a plan for our four days of riding. We wrote a copy out for us and one for Mum, then went down to check that Mum had received our SMS from the satellite phone and find the closest place that she could get messages while we are away. Also went down to the Eucumbene for a swim.

We packed up the dry food while Mum made dinner and left the packs open while we ate inside the van. Mum mentioned that there had been possums around at Wares Yards last time so we shouldn't leave the packs out overnight. After dinner I went outside to put the packs in the van and there was a possum already at our trail mix! He had opened two bags and nibbled, so we lost a day's worth of nuts for one person and had to replenish from the nuts for the next ride.

Went to sleep tired but excited!

Jan 4th - riding day 1 - Wares Yards to Schofields, side trip to Brayshaws

Had lots to pack up in the morning so didn't get away till nearly 12. Arrived at Schofields about 1.15. Took off packs and bedrolls and put them in the Hut. Had our sandwich with lettuce and put an orange in our day packs to eat when we get to Brayshaws. Checked the map - it's 5.5 km each way to see this new (for us) Hut.

Great ride to Brayshaws and back. Beautiful open plain and mostly grassy track. Brayshaws Hut is tiny - more like a lean to. We went on down Circuits Trail another 700m and found Crowes Yards, now just squares of dilapidated fence posts and snarls of wire. Good to see a bit of history though. Saw a snake near the yards - could have been a red bellied black snake but I'm not sure if they roam around here.

Saw lots of brumbies too. One of the herds on the way there had a little buckskin foal and one on the way back was just three horses. Looked like a new herd - a young stallion with just two mates. They whinnied to each other across the plain and went leaping and cantering away up into the bush long before we were near them.

We were Lords of the Flies today - gave hundreds of them a free ride across the plains. Have only seen one horse fly up here though - they must like the horse poo at Wares Yards.

Arrived back at Schofields around 5.20. GPS read 36.08 kms.

Unsaddled and gave the horses a drink and a pick. While they were eating I sneezed three times in such quick succession that the recoil breath from one sneeze was the intake for the next one.

Set up the electric fence as a little yard for them - they are very happy to just eat and not go anywhere. We can do this morning and evening now.

Hot tea/coffee and cup-a-soup were big hits at dinner. Will bring strong instant coffee next time though.

Jan 5th - riding day 2

Left Schofields around 10.30. Stopped at Circuits to check out the Hut (it has 2 doors! And windows that open!) and use the long drop.

Went on to Townsends Hut for lunch. Beautiful hut, but we decided not to stay here as it makes tomorrow too long.

Saw the black stallion and his herd as we were crossing the little stream that joins the Murrumbidgee near the track to Townsends Hut on the way to Pedens Hut. 4 mares, including 1 palomino, and a gorgeous little foal. Kept seeing their tracks as well - pretty awesome to see the little tracks of the foal. Saw them again a little later and they crossed the path in front of us to get away. Sam wanted to run away with them.

Reached Pedens Hut as the smell of rain came into the air and put our gear into the Hut as the first drops fell. Stood about in our Driza-bones holding the horses while they ate.

End of riding day: GPS read 51.31 kms

Walked down to the Murrumbidgee (2.5 kms each way) to give the horses their pellets, have a dip and collect some good water.

Saw a lone bay stallion on the way who wasn't in the least worried about being near us. He followed us home and lurked around on the plain as we got set up for the night. We will be sleeping pretty close to the horses tonight.

Also heard wild dogs or dingos howling as the evening set in. Set up our beds pretty close to the horses and to each other and put a pile of stones beside each of them so if anything does turn up we are prepared.

Had our dinner and dried things out by the fire. The stars came out for a beautiful but cold evening.

Jan 6th - riding day 3

When we set up the fence for them to feed it was close to the Hut so we left their ropes on and they were both amazing, so that is the new drill.

Both horses had sore backs last night so we are eating the heaviest food this morning.

Despite all the evening excitement we had a quiet night but woke to a foggy morning, so pretty cold.

Gps 51.37 as we left Pedens.

Went down to the Murrumbidgee again for water - both us and the horses (they didn't drink at the stream near Pedens, though Sam did bite off big bits of the bank and eat them). Once we were all watered we began the climb up the mountain to 1512 m.

Jadar Trail was hot and rocky, as expected. Climbed to 1300, then got off, put the horses boots on, and walked to 1390. Rode the rest of the way to the summit. Great views all the way to Tantangara Dam and a survey marker from the Snowy Hydro scheme.

The downwards road was fairly consistent and both horses were a bit narky by the time we got to the plain. Gulf Creek Trail is nice - mostly grassy, crosses a few little streams with good water for horses and people.

Stopped in at Circuits Hut to break the jig-jogging from the horses (mostly Heidi) and enjoyed some stretches on the grass in the shade. The water there is even worse now - stagnant.

Got into Schofields around 6. Set up the fence for the horses and let them eat while we set up everything else. Both had a lovely wash in the stream pouring billy-fulls of water over ourselves.

GPS at 71.78

Had tasty teriyaki beef for dinner (fancy dehydrated food we bought in the camping shop). Finished our cup-a-soup. Drank lots of water as we were both dehydrated.

Jan 7th - riding day 4

Very dewy night but not too cold. Day is warming up fast so we decided not to take the long way home. Had a lovely chilled out morning drinking tea and coffee and chatting about improvements to gear. I also had another wash in the river.

Rode home the short way and took all the lovely side tracks. Horses and people happy to be at base camp in the hot afternoon.

Final GPS read: 79.08km (plus the 5km round trip on foot to the Murrumbidgee).

Jan 8th

• Rest day
• Washing day
• Yarangobilly Thermal Pool day
• Planning day

Great hanging out all three together

Missed the turnoff up Tantangara Mountain at first so went about 2kms up Alpine Creek Trail and saw more brumbies. Some were grazing in the trees, some on the path in front of us stopping for a drink. Realised we had gone too far and stopped to look at the map. Discovered that the bridle path leaves the Alpine Creek Trail only about 200m from where it joins. Went back and found it.

Long steep climb up Tantangara Mountain to 1723m. Horses did very well - stopped a few times on the way up and we got off to send a message to Mum around 1.15 and walked the rest of the way up the mountain.

After enjoying the view (briefly as the weather was gathering) we went on to try to find Tantangara/Harvey's Hut. We looked at maps and the GPS and looked for a Trail in the right direction but to no avail until we had come down the mountain quite a bit. Then there was a sign pointing 400m to it! Very much tucked away. Nice Hut. Saw a snake around the back of it.

Ate half a sandwich each but felt we should keep moving as it was 2.30 and we still had a Trail to find out from the Hut. Started down a promising looking one as the rain began, including thunder and lightning - we were pretty exposed on the side of the hill so this felt a bit hairy.

Found a right turn of the trail that crossed Chance Creek the required number of times and rode out into the valley. Lost the trail, got thoroughly rained on, found the trail, horses were practically paddling on said trail, took a right turn over the creek that may have been a bad idea but eventually got back onto the Alpine Creek Trail and headed north. Big thanks to the GPS for that one. Got to see the 'small cascade' marked on the map - very pretty.

Got to Witzes Hut just after 5. Horses had a bit of trouble settling in and were too tired to eat (we ended up doing about 28kms today!). After an hour or so they to down to the business of eating.

GPS: 107.5

We were sopping wet and won't be dry by bed time.

Witzes Hut is definitely brumby central. We saw mobs of brumbies going past to go to bed at around 7, and for pretty much all the time between then and nightfall (8.40) there were brumbies either passing through or settling down for the night.

We set up my tent on the hill near the horses and Dad slept in the Hut. It is very dry inside my tent, though still raining outside, and you can hear the brumbies whinnying to each other in the darkness - from several different directions. I also just heard some fighting noises from the other side of the hill that we are on. I wonder what the horses think of it all?

Jan 10th - riding day 2 again

I slept late (7.30!) and the rain had stopped and the sun had come out. We had a couple of hours of sunshine to dry things before the clouds rolled back in. Decided to leave the tent up and do a day ride to Hains.

Got off about 11 and followed the brumby trails over the creeks to the corner of Nungar Creek Trail and Bullocks Hill Trail. Disturbed a mob of 15 brumbies and they trotted off elsewhere.

Saw a party of 6 riders and a party of 2 riders as we rode up Bullocks Hill trail beside the plain. Noted where they went into and came out of the trees for possible exploration later. Also saw lots of bridle paths going up to the left over the ridge towards Gooandra and Bullocks Hill.

Got to Hains Hut at the Murrumbidgee at 12.30 and had a poke around. Nice little Hut with a good verandah in a beautiful valley. Went back up to the tree line to tie the horses up so we could have a quick lunch. Clouds were gathering and we wanted to swim before the rain hit (forecast had been for lots of rain but it turned out we got that yesterday afternoon and evening).

Took turns holding the horses and swimming in the Murrumbidgee. It's lovely up here before the dam - deep enough to sit down in and fast flowing so very refreshing. Dad thought it was cold but I didn't think so.

Let the horses have a bit more of a pick of the lovely grass by the river before we rode home. Found one of the bridle paths up into the trees where we had seen the two riders disappear and followed it up the hill to a brumby pad in the trees and all along the ridge through wildflowers and lovely trees. Once the trail came out of the trees we cut across the plain to get back to Witzes Hut and I had an argument with Sam about a Creek crossing. Didn't have to get off and stand in the Creek this time though so we'll call it a success.

Got back to the Hut around 5 (GPS: 126.8) and hung out drinking coffee and waiting for the brumbies to pass on their way to bed. We sat drinking coffee in the late afternoon sun but no brumbies. We heard a whinny or two as we drank cup-a-soup and waited in the early evening. We sat on the grass for half an hour and continued to wait but didn't see them. At 8.15, after nearly an hour and a half, we decided to take the horses down to the plain for a pick and see if there were any there, but all we saw was a few stragglers heading up into the trees. We had somehow missed them all.

We came back and did our jobs - tied up the horses and Dad went to light the outside fire and I went inside to boil water for dinner. I heard a flurry of hoof beats and worried about what might cause our horses to make that much noise, rushed outside and saw a whole herd passing about 20m from the cabin. I quickly called Dad to come and see and we crouched in the grass quietly as they wandered past. 12 horses, all sizes. One tried to stop for a bit of a graze and got told off and sent back into line.

Had dinner by the fire in the moonlight. An absolutely beautiful summer evening.

Jan 11th - riding day 3 again

Made a coffee first thing and took the horses down to the plains to drink it and watch brumbies while they feasted on tasty alpine grasses. Saw several herds moving across the plain to their daytime grazing grounds. They didn't fancy coming close to us. Heard a couple of young horses whinnying because they got left behind - they must have slept in. The chestnuts and palominos gleam like jewels in the morning sun - they never seem to blend properly with the bush at all.

Took our time getting packed up as Witzes Hut is so nice, then had trouble with the Steripen and left even later than we intended. The weather was hotter and drier than it had been. We found a few shortcuts but mostly stuck to the fire trails for the 12kms home. Glad to be in out of the heat - discovered it was total fire ban weather and were glad we were coming home.

GPS final read: 140.1km

Lessons for next trip:

• At least two hankies so one can be drying - made more hankies at home
• Little bag of instant coffee, little bag of milk powder (no cold press coffee)
• Soap we can use in the streams - turns out there isn't such a thing
• Hiking trowel - so it is super light - found one at home
• No fresh fruit - only dried
• Less hard feed for the horses - there is plenty of grass and they just get silly - do they need any hard feed at all? - decided on no hard feed
• Spare shirt for me that has longer arms - purchased a mens shirt as the womens are far less practical
• Damper recipe - decided we didn't have the kit for it
• More beef teriyaki

Jan 25th - leaving Bullocks Hill

Beautiful morning. Lots to get organised so once again got going around 11.

Thought the pump was broken this morning but there was just something stuck in the pipe. Cochrans pulled up to set up for a ride as we were making coffee. Peter said Millers Hut was a nice place to camp. They had 7 tents set up as a big edge to their camp, which had a massive tarp. Peter said he breaks a lot of tarps and just has to buy new ones when the wind rips through one.

Found lots of little side paths off Bullocks Hill Trail that looked frequented by trail riders. Dropped 200m in attitude through the bush. Almost as soon as we came out of the trees we saw a herd of brumbies. Wandered slowly across the plain grazing and watching them. They didn't get concerned and leave until we were quite close. When they left they went racing down the hill then went single file up the other side and we could count them properly - 18. Mostly grey. Apparently they are known as the Kiandra Greys.

Had a rest stop and an apple at the Murrumbidgee before we attempted the crossing. Had to be pretty cautious as there was plenty of bog around. Found a way down and across (the horses were thirsty so went in happily enough). Just as we got close to the other side a hiker appeared and the horses freaked out and went back to the side of the river we had come from. They remained very 'up' until the hiker got close enough to talk and they could tell that despite the giant thing on its back the hiker was still human. We crossed to a little rocky beach and tried to go through the grass but Heidi wouldn't go. We got off and tried leading them but Dad discovered that there was more river under the grass (by stepping in it and falling over). We turned around and on the way back to the rocky beach I fell over. Got back on and tried wading up the river to where the hiker had crossed with great success, though the horses got up to their bellies in the deepest bit.

Used the GPS to follow the Australian Alpine Walking Track, crossing many little creeks and bogs in the process. Found the track to Millers Hut but not the Hut. Decided to camp at Ghost Gully.

GPS: 167.6

Ghost Gully is packed. 24 horses at least, and another 6 arrived quite late in the evening. Dad set up his tent for the first time. Some kind neighbours lent us chairs.

What a great day.

Jan 26th

Had a long chat with a guy from Gundagai over coffee this morning - he commented that our muesli bars, coffee and orange looked very sparse.

Our neighbours gave us good directions to the right brumby pad and the GPS coordinates for Millers Hut so we set off about 10.30 and were at Millers by 11.30 (with minimal bush bashing). Nice hut with two chairs and a little Creek close by.

Had a snack at the Hut and left our bed rolls and saddle bags in the Hut. Went looking for the path we lost yesterday and found it without too much trouble. Had a lovely ride across the plain to the Murrumbidgee crossing with the awful bridge (we used the ford). Cut across the plain again to get to Long Plain Hut. Saw 5 brumbies on the plain and they weren't moving for anyone - the stallion trotted towards us and kept sharp lookout to make sure we were just passing through.

Stopped at Long Plain Hut, which is really a homestead, for lunch. They used to bring the piano 4 kms on a bullock dray from Rules Point Hotel so they could have dances in the homestead as the rooms were bigger. Must have been pretty crowded dances!

Someone from a Canberra 4-wheel-drive club came over for a long chat just before we saddled up. Forecast for the next few days is mid to high 20s so we'll try to get going early tomorrow.

Rode down to the Murrumbidgee crossing again after lunch and this time stopped for a swim (completely amazing - deep bits and the river is running swiftly) and to give the horses a pick of the nice river grass. Quite a few cars came down to the river while we were there - had a long chat with a 79-year-old ex-lighthorseman.

On the ride back to Millers Hut we saw brumbies who were very cautious and ran away very quickly - we figure they must have been chased recently. Maybe the brumbies have left from around Ghost Gully because there have been lots of brumby chasers camping there? We also met some people riding up from Ghost Gully who had just been to Millers Hut. They didn't mention our gear so mustn't have come inside. They were training a packhorse.

Pretty tired when we reached the Hut. I think we avoided dehydration this time (unlike the Jadar Trig day) but we're still pretty tired and a bit hungry (all four of us). Aiming to get started early tomorrow so we can stay out of the heat so we are going to pack up tents wet and dry them back at Bullocks Hill.

Gps: 186.7

Jan 27th - back to Bullocks Hill

Got started earlier than normal - 9.30. Rode up the path that we took when we missed Millers Hut because it looked like we could avoid some of the boggy bits of the Australian Alpine Walking Track. At the point where we had gone as far as on the previous ride up it we found a brumby trail going in exactly the right direction. Followed brumby trails and picked our way along ridge-lines until we picked up our previous track.

Saw another ride (5 people) out on the plain but didn't quite catch up to them.

Crossed the Murrumbidgee pretty easily and went straight on wanting to get into camp before the heat really started. Stopped for half an hour at the tree-line just off Bullocks Hill Trail and ate the last of the nuts and jerky before heading into camp. Got in by around 2.

GPS: 201km

We were so early that we almost didn't know what to do with ourselves. Set up our tents and got our washing done then made plans for tomorrow and the rest of the riding.

Finalised plans over evening tea. They are:

• Off day plan: check Rocky Plains for space and water, go to Adaminaby (do emails and internetting), buy hand sanitizer, instant coffee
• Go to river with tarp, chairs, snacks and a book to read and hang out, having a dip in the river at regular intervals

New riding plan:

• Sunday - ride to Gooandra Hut in morning, pack up most of camp in afternoon
• Monday - drive to Rocky Plains and ride out same morning, camp out
• Tuesday - ride back to rocky plains, drive back to Wamboin

9.30pm - 2 generators running in different parts of the camp. Loud laughing and talking all over. No idea how we are going to sleep!

Jan 28th - rest day

Dawn chorus at Bullocks Hill - all the horses snickering to each other. One horse sees their human and snickers, which sets off a while bunch of other horses around the camp. Lovely way to wake up.

Hiked down Coppermine Trail for 45 minutes, had an orange and came back. Very pretty and looks like there is a river at a good distance for a day ride to go down, have lunch and swim by the river, then ride back.

Met some people when we went down to fill up the water - they seemed really lovely.

Went to Adaminaby to pick up emails and a few supplies. Had lovely chats with Mum. Checked out Rocky Plains on the way and met some people there who had family camped at Bullocks Hill.

Came home and Dad realised he had left his knife at the end of the trail this morning so we resolved to hike it again this evening. As we dithered over what to do next the couple we met by the river this morning dropped in for a chat. Preston and Catherine. Turns out they finished the entire BNT about a year ago. We chatted for ages.

We still needed to hike though, so we set off at great speed at 6.30 and managed to squeeze it into just over an hour. Very hard work coming back up the steep trail! Fortunately we got the knife back - exactly where Dad remembered leaving it.

Fed the horses on the tasty grass from 7.45-8.15 then gave them hard feed and packed swimming stuff while they ate. We were down at the Murrumbidgee by 8.45 and managed a swim and wash in the dusk as the sun was setting and the stars were coming out. Water felt warm because it was so cold outside but very refreshing and so glad we did it.

Pretty late to bed after all that, as well as packing sandwiches and other supplies for an early ride. Hope we can still get up for an early ride!

Jan 29th - Gooandra Hut

Woke up at the same time as usual (around 6.20, Dad is up before me). Gave the horses a pick on the good grass, invited Catherine and Preston around for dinner on Thursday, and got the horses organised to ride out by 8.30.

Tricky ride around the hill with lots of trees over the trail we took. Got around them though and found the right creek crossings and path to get to the Hut by 9.30. Sam noticed the little path into the trees that cut the corner and took us straight to the Hut rather than to the fire trail and then back to the Hut.

It is really Gooandra Homestead, rather than Hut - 4 rooms and a lovely verandah. No water, so not great for staying at. We put the electric fence up around the trees for the horses to eat in the shade and had a picnic on the verandah and a chat to Mum on the phone. Didn't notice the time going by - the horses had stopped and started sleeping in the shade when we looked at the time and it was 10.40. Decided we better get moving soonish.

Rode down onto the plain to find a path through to Bullocks Hill Fire Trail. Great path down from the hill and brumby trails all over. It was very hot so once we could see a number of tracks over the river that we were pretty sure were the other end of the ones we saw on the way to Hains we went round the hill and came home. Got a bit stuck up the hill at first as we weren't following brumby tracks and it was very steep but came down to a brumby track around the base of the hill and got round.

Had an argument with Sam as he wanted to go back the way we had come but I wanted to cut the corner and not go back up on the ridge. He was very keen to get home, so keen that a little later we went into a bog up to the knees. It looked ok, but now we know that Sam will go into anything if he thinks it is the way home. Heidi will have to be our pathfinder for dodgy crossings.

Did some training on the way home - stopped when Sam was all excited going uphill and didn't continue until he dropped his energy and stood still. No idea if it did anything - he doesn't know which way is home when we are camping out so doesn't rush in any particular direction.

Got home around 1.

Gps: 218.3

Washed the horses, had lunch, organised our packing food for the morning. Went down to Bullocks Hill and set up camp.

Jan 30th - hot day

Gps: 231.4 at start of day - it must have recorded something yesterday when we weren't riding.

Got going at 8am - a record for us! Saw a couple of old cowboys collecting their horses on our way out and got some advice about the trail and the crossing from one of them. The place we had planned to try to cross the Eucumbene was the one he recommended so we felt good about our navigating!

No trouble other than rocky trails going up out of Rocky Plain and down via Tantangara Mountain Trail to the road. Saw a lame steel grey brumby (a stallion who had been in a fight?) and a wild dog.

Crossed the highway easily but had trouble finding a way over the hill with the bushes, wire, holes and steep bits. The gent who gave us the coordinates for Millers Hut mentioned there was lots of wire on the plain and it seems he was right. The gent from Rocky Plain had recommended going up the powerlines so we picked a path across the plain to them and found the going much easier. It was super steep, so we took a looping trail up the hill which didn't quite reach the plain at the top. Dad and Heidi did some bush bashing and got us up to it. Lots of basalt (Rocky Plains gent had mentioned this), an old gate and powerlines singing in the wind.

At the end of the Plain we hit Tabletop Mountain Trail and started following it. One of the Selwyn cross country ski routes runs along it for a while so we have found a place we can come to in winter and summer. Also it has a mobile tower, so we sent a pic to Mum!

Saw brumbies from the trail, enjoyed incredible views of mountains all around us, and started to get really hot. Were very glad when we saw the sign to 4 Mile Hut - track is much clearer than the Rooftop Map said it was.

Hut is amazing. Original, built by the last miner in the mountains. Used by ski tours in the winter.

We took care of the horses, ate some food and each had a splash and wash in the river (a respectable level of cold for mountain stream). We were sitting down in the Hut to eat more when I saw the two horses heads prick up like they were watching something - two hikers had arrived! They were followed by another two - a party of four doing the Australian Alps Walking Track. They were happy to meet the horses (who are getting used to hikers now and freaking out a little bit less each time) and we have had several lovely chats over the course of the afternoon.

There were 1000 miners in this little valley in its gold rush days and you can see it in the landscape. Piles of rocks everywhere and the rivers and creeks diverted every which way so they don't seem to come out quite where you expect. It is also a favourite haunt of wombats (and rabbits) so there are both animal holes and mine holes. Altogether not a great place for a ride but we wanted to poke about a bit so we went for an evening ride around 5. We went up the valley about 1 or 1.5 kms, crossed the river and came back down, but it took forever. Too many piles of stones, tiny bogs, bits of Creek, wombat holes and pig-rooted tussocks. We had to get off for the Creek crossing. Sam jumped it without much fuss but Heidi was not keen on it. With some persistence Dad persuaded her over.

GPS: 249.1

Had another splash in the Creek after our ride - the cold stuff is so refreshing. Dinner and chats with the hiking crew (Diane, Kevin, Oliver and ?), then a call to Mum (because we still get reception from the tower) and bed. Felt like the cool change had started as we came to bed - very much hope it dissuaded the bot flies which have been really bothering the horses (and us).

Jan 31st - heading home

Ended up getting off the horses for the long, long descent, and running next to them as stones scattered in our path. Were extremely glad to get down to the river and have a swim as it was another hot day.

Very busy once we got back to camp feeding horses and packing up. Put the horses into the float as the sun was setting and headed home.

GPS: 270.6